Last updated: October 19, 2026

3D printing tools for beginners: the 10 you actually need

You need far fewer tools than the shopping lists suggest. Your printer probably came with the basics, and most of the rest is cheap, ordinary stuff from a hardware store or pharmacy. Here are the ten worth having, in the order we'd get them, plus what can wait and what to skip.

First: check what came in the box

Before you buy anything, open the little tool bag or drawer that came with your printer. Depending on the model, it often includes some of these:

Hex (Allen) keys in the sizes your printer uses
A scraper or spatula for removing prints
A spare nozzle, or a thin needle for clearing one
Sometimes flush cutters, a small screwdriver or a glue stick

Anything that came with the printer is already the right size for it, so use those first.

The short list

#	Tool	What it's for	When you need it
1	Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and paper towels	Cleaning grease off the build plate	Day one
2	Flush cutters	Trimming filament and snipping supports	Day one
3	A plastic scraper	Getting stubborn prints off without scratching the plate	Day one (if one wasn't included)
4	Hex keys	Tightening belts, screws and parts that work loose	Usually included
5	A sealed box or bags with desiccant	Keeping filament dry between prints	First week
6	Plain glue stick	Extra grip, or a release layer for PETG	When you need it
7	Digital calipers	Measuring prints and parts so things fit	First month
8	Tweezers or needle-nose pliers	Pulling ooze and blobs away from the hot nozzle	First month
9	A brass brush	Cleaning old plastic off the outside of the nozzle	First month
10	A deburring tool or hobby knife	Cleaning up edges, brims and leftover support marks	When you need it

1. Isopropyl alcohol and paper towels

This is the most useful thing on the list. Fingerprints leave oil on the build plate, and oil is one of the most common reasons a print won't stick. Prusa recommends isopropyl alcohol (IPA) of 90% or stronger, sprayed or wiped on a cold plate with an unscented paper towel. Weaker solutions and anything made for skin or nails can contain oils that make adhesion worse (source: Prusa first layer issues guide).

Keep a bottle of plain dish soap nearby too. When alcohol stops working, a wash in warm (not hot) water with a few drops of dish soap removes residue IPA leaves behind. Dry the plate fully before printing. Check your printer's manual first: some plate coatings, like Prusa's textured sheet, shouldn't be soaked or washed often.

Isopropyl alcohol is flammable. Use it on a cold plate in a ventilated room, let it evaporate fully before the bed heats up, and keep the bottle away from the printer's hot parts.

2. Flush cutters

Small, sharp side cutters that leave a flat cut. You'll use them every time you load filament: snip the end at an angle so it feeds cleanly, and cut off the bent or chewed bit if a load fails. They're also the easiest way to remove supports and brims. Sharp scissors will do in a pinch, but they crush the filament rather than cutting it cleanly.

3. A plastic scraper

On most flexible, removable plates you won't need one: let the plate cool, take it off, bend it gently, and the print pops off. A scraper is for the stubborn ones. Prefer plastic over metal. Prusa, for example, warns that its satin sheet isn't scratch-resistant and recommends a plastic spatula instead of metal ones (source: Prusa satin sheet guide). You can even print your own; search "print scraper" on Printables or MakerWorld. If you do use a blade, always push away from your hands.

4. Hex keys

Most printers are held together with hex screws, and the right keys usually come in the box. Keep them in one place. You'll want them for occasional maintenance like tightening a wobbly part or adjusting belt tension, following your printer's own maintenance guide. A screwdriver-style hex driver is a nice comfort upgrade later, but not necessary.

5. A sealed box or bags with desiccant

Filament slowly absorbs moisture from the air, and damp filament causes popping, rough surfaces and stringing. You don't need anything special to start: a plastic storage box with a tight lid, or resealable bags, plus a few desiccant packets (the little drying sachets) work well. Many spools ship in a sealed bag with a desiccant packet inside; keep both and reuse them. Not sure which filament to buy? See our best filament for beginners.

6. A plain glue stick

A thin layer of ordinary glue stick does two jobs. It adds grip when small or tricky parts won't stay down, and it works as a release layer for PETG, which can stick so hard to smooth PEI that it pulls pieces out of the surface. Prusa notes you don't need glue made for 3D printing; a basic PVA-based glue stick is fine. Many textured plates print PLA perfectly without any. See PLA vs PETG and first layer not sticking for when to use it.

7. Digital calipers

Not needed to start printing, but they're the tool you'll wish you'd bought once you start making useful things. Measure the calibration cube from our first things to print guide, check whether a part will fit, or measure something you want to design a holder for. An inexpensive pair is plenty for 3D printing.

8. Tweezers or needle-nose pliers

When the printer heats up, a little plastic often oozes out of the nozzle. Long tweezers or pliers let you pull it away before a print starts without getting your fingers near the hot end. Never touch the nozzle or heater block: they typically run at around 200 °C or hotter when printing.

9. A brass brush

Over time, old plastic builds up on the outside of the nozzle and can drag blobs across your prints. A soft brass wire brush cleans it off. Follow your printer maker's maintenance guide: usually the nozzle is heated and you brush carefully, keeping clear of wires and sensors. Brass bristles are relatively soft, so they're gentler on the nozzle than a steel brush.

10. A deburring tool or hobby knife

Good for the finishing touches: shaving off a brim, cleaning the slightly flared bottom edge some prints have, and removing little support marks. A deburring tool (a small swivel blade) is the safer and easier option for beginners. With a hobby knife, always cut away from yourself.

Nice to have later

Filament dryer: worth it once you print PETG or other moisture-sensitive filaments, live somewhere humid, or keep spools for months. Until then, a sealed box usually does the job. See how to dry filament for temperatures and signs a spool is wet.
A spare nozzle made for your exact printer, so a clog doesn't stop you for a week (here's how to clear a clogged nozzle first). Buy from your printer maker or a brand that lists it as compatible.
A second build plate, often a textured one, which is easy for PETG and forgiving for PLA.
A heat gun or hot air tool for zapping fine strings off finished prints (keep it moving).
Sandpaper in a few grits, for smoothing parts you want to paint.

What to skip

Giant "100-piece" tool kits. They mostly duplicate what came in the box. Buy the few things you'll use.
Upgrades on day one. New hotends, fans or firmware can wait until you know what problem you're solving. Most beginner issues are fixed with cleaning and settings.
Acetone and strong solvents for the build plate, unless your printer maker says they're OK. Prusa says never to use acetone on its textured or satin sheets.
Skin-care wipes and window cleaner for the plate. They can leave residue that stops prints sticking.

Who this list is NOT for

Resin printer owners. Resin needs a different, safety-first kit: nitrile gloves, eye protection, a wash fluid or IPA and ventilation. See resin vs filament.
People printing ABS, ASA or nylon. You'll also want an enclosure and good ventilation, and those materials have their own plate rules.
Experienced makers. If you already tune your own retraction and swap nozzles, you have all of this and more.

Your next step

Got the basics? Work through the first print checklist, then try a few of the first things to 3D print. Still choosing a printer? Start with the best 3D printers for beginners.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need to buy tools for my first 3D printer?

Only a few. Most printers ship with the hex keys and some basic tools you need to set up. The things worth adding on day one are isopropyl alcohol (90% or stronger) with paper towels for cleaning the build plate, and a pair of flush cutters for trimming filament.

What should I clean my 3D printer bed with?

Prusa recommends isopropyl alcohol of 90% or stronger, wiped on a cold plate with an unscented paper towel, and warm water with a few drops of plain dish soap when alcohol alone stops working. Avoid anything made for skin, because the added oils ruin adhesion. Always check your own printer maker's care instructions, since some plate coatings have their own rules.

Can I clean a textured build plate with acetone?

Not usually. Prusa says never to use acetone on its textured or satin sheets. It only allows occasional acetone on its smooth PEI sheet. If you are not sure what your plate is, stick to isopropyl alcohol and dish soap.

Do I need a filament dryer right away?

Usually not if you print PLA and store it well. A dryer becomes worth it when you see signs of damp filament, like popping sounds and sudden stringing, when you print PETG or other moisture-sensitive materials, or if you live somewhere humid.

Is a big 3D printing tool kit worth buying?

Often not. Many kits duplicate the tools that came with your printer and pad the count with things you will rarely use. Buying the few items on this list one at a time usually gets you better versions of the tools you actually reach for.